Ninth Leg

Non-technical routes converge on a saddle that connects four canyons.  The summit is approached from the North above the Flying Buttress.

For its views, boundaries, and contrasts, the Ninth Leg is the most remarkable climb on the mountain.  No fewer than four ice age cirques converge on this elevated mass of exposed granite.  Little Willow's cirque lies to the West.  Big Willow's cirque, with its dramatic slopes that are visible from most of Salt Lake valley, digs at the North edge of the summit ridge.  On the East, the deeper and largest of the cirqes is Bell's Canyon, whose glacier was so massive that it reached the bottom of the mountain.  To the South, the Lone Peak cirque frames a wide view of Utah Lake and the south summit route, and its edge forms the boundary between Salt Lake and Utah Counties.

3-D view:  false summit and four cirquesThe latter three cirques have not fully converged and the triangular saddle that exists at their center is tilted toward the North-west.  At the West corner of the saddle an extension of the summit ridge divides Big and Little Willow cirques.  When viewed from the Eastern part of Sandy, this cleaver completely obscures the summit.

The main summit route enters Lone Peak cirque from the South-west.  The summit lies at the center East edge of the cirque, but is protected by vertical walls that rise as high as 600 uninterrupted feet.  As a result, non-technical climbers use the saddle to approach the summit from the North, and most routes converge there.

A straightforward but trail-less slope leads to the West corner of the saddle.  The Big Willow edge of the saddle is relatively flat and easy to traverse.

from Eastern Sandy, the false summit obscures Lone Peak


Route Diversion:  False Summit

From the saddle the top of the false summit cleaver is a short walk to the West with very little elevation gain.  The formation is completely covered with boulders, and with significant dropoffs on both sides some patience is required.  Scrubby conifers dominate the south face of the ridge.

West corner of saddle and false summitFrom the highest point the ridge descends slightly and ends in a peak-like point at 10,640 feet elevation.  Better views of the Oquirrh range and Salt Lake valley can only be found at the true summit.


Salt Lake valley from false summitBig Willow cirque frames excellent views of downtown Salt Lake City, Mount Olympus, and Twin Peaks.  Its walls contribute the largest talus piles on the mountain, many of which are merged and rounded.  An easy walk to the East leads to the meeting of Big Willow and Bell's Canyon.

The slope of the saddle forms a gradual but dramatic rise to the final summit scramble.  Below the West edge of the slope is a sheer face deemed the Flying Buttress.  No specific trail exists on the slope, and the route is an obvious climb to the arete that crowns it.

headwall of Big Willow cirque from saddleUpon reaching the top of the slope and the highest reaches of the mountain, the climb is over, and a final scramble ensues.

summit, Scott, and Lone Peak cirqueJeff: When you get to the top of Little Willow at the County line, stay on the line and go northeast, staying as far to the left as possible.  I went the wrong way: down into the Lone Peak cirque, then up the well-marked trail along the left side that ends in a steep climb through a narrow, rocky chute.  If you have the misfortune of going this way, at the top you will be (a) tired, and (b) faced with the choice of squirming through a little hole above you on the right, or finding hand-holds and climbing over the rocks toward the bushes on the left. Go left: it leads back to the better trail and a nice, open area.

Scott:  Our timing was perfect.  We could hear people talking up on the peak, and could see what looked like a huge tarp laid out across the rocks within 100 feet of the top.  As I was standing there wondering why anybody would want to camp up so high and exposed, the 'tarp' suddenly rose up, catching the slight breeze, someone yelled "Geronimo," then leapt into space, gliding by the peak, through the cirque and out into the valley.  That was cool...I got some great pictures.  Within a few minutes we met up with about 6 people on their way down.  We then made our way over to the top of the Big Willow skree, a 700-foot slide.  Slowly edging our way over to the rim, we peered over and saw another hiker just a few yards below, making his way up this newly-revealed route.  That's definitely the way I want to come next time.  Nice trail all the way up Big Willow, then the hard push up the skree.

start of the buttress climbAndrew:  When we reached the rim of Big Willow we discussed the futility of attempting to use its rocky slopes to reach the saddle.  At that moment a determined hiker within the sound of our voices was doing just that.  We were appropriately humbled.

Ryan:  The human body is capable of superhuman feats of strength and endurance, but proper training, hydration, and exercise are essential...blah blah blah, blahbetty-blah blah, blah.